San Francisco Day Seven: The Seventeen Mile Drive and Point Lobos State Park

I was up early on the morning of Tuesday, May 13. My old body told me I needed to go for a run.

I followed this internal self-talk. I ran from the hotel to Otter Point in Pacific Grove. This is a part of the Monterey Bay Coastal Trail.

The trail had been dampened by some pre-dawn rain showers. That didn’t slow me or the other walkers, joggers, and bike riders who too were up early.

No matter where my eyes scanned, I had pretty views of the neighborhood and the bay. This run is not likely to leave my memory. The setting is too special. If I had the endurance and the time, I could have stayed on this trail all day. But another trail was calling me.

After breakfast, the Commander had us scheduled to start our exploration of the Seventeen Mile Drive. As much as I had liked the views from my run, the views for the remainder of the day would only become more incredible.

Much has been written about The Seventeen Mile Drive, I doubt I can add much to these praises. Let’s leave like this, if you are given the opportunity to make the drive, don’t turn it down.

I did not focus on the opulence of the homes or the famous golf courses. No, I focused on the determination of the Pacific Ocean, and the rugged coastline the ocean rolls into every minute of the day and night.

The Restless Sea (Photo Bill Pike)

Marker 4 on the drive is titled The Restless Sea, and here is the commentary about this section: “The Restless Sea earns its name as one of the most turbulent sections of coastline in Pebble Beach. Waves are constantly converging and crashing into each other, likely caused by submerged rocks.”

Each marker has a story to tell and a point to make. Perhaps the most famous is The Lone Cypress.

According to one marker, the Monterey cypress almost became extinct along the coast. Fortunately, it didn’t as the trees grow naturally here. The popular trees can reach heights up to seventy feet and can live up to three hundred years.

Yes, there is something special about The Lone Cypress. I admire its loyalty. No matter what nature has tossed at the tree, the cypress has remained loyal to its solitary perch.

The Lone Cypress (Photo Betsy Pike)

We made a short stop at the Pebble Beach Visitor Center. Next, we started working our way further south toward Point Lobos State Natural Reserve.

I’ll put this in the same category as The Seventeen Mile Drive—if you have the opportunity to visit Point Lobos, don’t turn the invitation down. Yes, you will walk more at Point Lobos, but those steps will reveal to you spectacular coastal scenery.

When we arrived at Point Lobos, the parking lot was full and closed. This meant we had to park along the shoulder of the highway that parallels the park.

We walked back to the entrance, took some advice from park personnel, and started our exploration. In truth, what happened was we were so enthralled by the beauty that we kept pushing ourselves further and further into the available trails.

One of many pretty sights at Point Lobos (Photo Bill Pike)

Eventually, we worked our way to a stopping point and the walk back to our car, but neither of us regrets taking the time to explore. What we saw was nature at her best.

The ocean, the rocky shoreline, the wildflowers, an occasional appearance of wildlife, and the knowledge of park personnel added to the pleasure of the hike. Neither of us will forget this visit.

Point Lobos: rocks, surf, flowers (Photo Bill Pike)

Back out on the highway, we made a stop in the parking lot of Monastery Beach and enjoyed our Pebble Beach sandwich in the car.

From there we drove back into Carmel By Sea for more exploring. The focus here was to locate some of the Storybook Houses.

Unfortunately, our interpretation of local maps was being challenged. Luckily, a patient, local resident sensed this, and he redirected our steps guiding us to our first Storybook House.

Carmel By The Sea Storybook House (Photo Betsy Pike)

We strolled through the shopping district and made our way down to see the famous beach. Even though it was May, a few beach worshippers were present on this pleasant sunny afternoon. In a few weeks, I imagine this beach will be packed.

Our walk back to the car revealed more about the character of the town.

A plaque on a fence featured these words in bold print: LIV DE LIFE with this Emerson quote behind it: “The ornament of a house is the friends who frequent it.”

Another creative sign featured precisely cut letters from assorted license plates to form this colorful expression: Happy Go Lucky.

Colorful sign (Photo Bill Pike)

From Carmel By The Sea, we re-entered The Seventeen Mile Drive from the land side. We worked our way to The Inn at Spanish Bay.

The Commander navigated us to a sunlit, stone patio where she ordered a glass of wine and I had glass of beer.

(Photo Betsy Pike)

We sat in comfort admiring the view.

Gradually, we inched our way back to the hotel.

After a respite, we walked back down to Cannery Row, and had dinner with a view of Monterey Bay at Louie Linguini.

Tonight, this trip was coming to an end.

Early tomorrow morning, we would say goodbye to this stunning California coastline and drive back to the San Francisco airport.

Thankfully, we survived the drive to the airport and the drop off of the rental car.

Inside our gate area, I stumbled upon a church friend, Susan King, who had been in San Francisco visiting a friend. Later she would get a good laugh watching me stuffing an over stuffed suitcase into an overhead bin.

Before we took off, the Captain of the plane for Breeze Airways gave what was maybe the best welcome aboard and here’s what to expect speech I’ve ever heard from a pilot.

Remnants of thundershowers were around the Richmond area as we descended into the landing pattern, but our landing was smooth.

We grabbed our bags and worked our way to the shuttle van to return us to our parked car.

The only downer of our trip unfolded between the driver of the van and an airline employee who admitted she had a lousy day.

These two individuals grumbled over where the airline employee wanted to be dropped off. The tenseness between them was disappointing.

This tiny confrontation brought me back to reality. That magnificent California coastline was far away on the other side of America.

I wonder if the personalities of the van driver and the airline employee could have been soothed by a single pretty California vista?

That’s hard to know, but I know that my old brain and soul will forever cherish what California shared with me and the Commander, the best trip planner in the world.

It might be hard to see it at times, and often we do our best to destroy it, but we still live in a beautiful world.

For that I am grateful, and I must constantly remind myself to do my part to take care of this world.

Another pretty vista from Point Lobos (Photo Bill Pike)

San Francisco Day Six: Monterey Bay Aquarium

After a good night of sleep, we were refreshed.

We wasted no time after breakfast to start our morning.

Our walk to the Monterey Bay Aquarium took us by an assortment of homes, shops, and other businesses.

Making a visit to this unique aquarium had been a goal for a long time. This is a special place. A place where imagination and ingenuity have created an environment for capturing the stories about the Pacific Ocean and its impact on these California coastal communities. And at the heart of those stories are people.

Immediately, the displays draw visitors to people.

The ‘generosity and vision’ of David and Lucile Packard sparked the development of the aquarium. Mr. Packard once said that “the ocean is the most important frontier we have.” Clearly, the aquarium gives life to his words.

Through his fiction and nonfiction writing, American author, John Steinbeck, brought to life Monterey and Cannery Row. Steinbeck wrote about the people who breathed life into economy of harvesting the bounty of the sea.

Another important person was Ed Ricketts, who is described as “an ecologist before his time.” Mr. Ricketts helped people to learn about and understand the relationships of the Pacific’s sea life and its links to the region. His early studies helped to lay the foundation for future research. Also, Mr. Ricketts was the fictional character ‘Doc’ in Steinbeck’s Cannery Row and Sweet Thursday.

Without question, visitors learn about Cannery Row. The impact of harvesting fish and bringing the catch to the cannery for processing is told from the perspective of the workers.

Here is a quote that describes what it was like: “We used to dread getting up in the morning because we worked so hard. It was cold and wet with water running under your feet the whole time—Can you imagine squeezing the guts out of fish at three or four in morning?”

Early in our visit, we learned about sea kelp and its impact on the life of this region of the Pacific.

Critical sea kelp for these California coastal waters (Photo Bill Pike)

The entire aquarium is user friendly. Displays attract all age groups, but there is a special emphasis for children.

From the brilliance of the wave machine, the interior and exterior displays of sea life, the outside vistas, the friendly and knowledgeable docents, and the use of video to present information make the aquarium uniquely qualified to help us all learn.

Stunning jellyfish (Photo Betsy Pike)

This quote from Loren Eiseley caught my attention: “If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water.”

From our first display until our last view from an outside vista, we felt the “magic of the water” at the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

An exterior view from the aquarium (Photo Betsy Pike)

After our visit to the aquarium, we regrouped at the hotel.

We continued to explore. Our goal was to visit the Point Pinos Lighthouse.

As we drove and walked along, the blue sky, beds of flowers, combined with a shoreline of scraggy rocks worn by a relentless Pacific, made for unforgettable postcard images.

Pretty path along the Pacific (Photo Bill Pike)

Occasionally, we came across a colony of at type of burrowing ground squirrel. Clearly looking for a handout from kindhearted tourists, these creatures did not rate highly with residents of Monterey.

Unfortunately, the lighthouse was closed. But again, the rocky shoreline, the hues of the ocean’s water, the crashing waves, the glide of pelicans, and the steady progress of fishing boats heading into port made for a remarkable afternoon.

In the background the Point Pinos Lighthouse (Photo Bill Pike)

We drove back to the hotel, then took a short walk to a local dive—Sly McFly for dinner.

On our after dinner walk back to the hotel, we purchased some chocolate.

Then, we made a decision to drive back out to Asilomar State Beach with the hope of seeing the sun recline into the Pacific.

We found a good spot for watching the sun sink, but partly cloudy conditions and a light rain shower limited seeing the sun.

A slowly sinking sun (Photo Bill Pike)

Our drive back to the hotel wove us through the pretty coastal town, Pacific Grove.

Another non-stop day with lots of steps had us ready for rest.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium still swirled in my mind.

I thought again about how this magnificent facility for teaching and learning came together.

And my old brain has this reoccurring question—why can we collectively come together to create such a facility, and yet, we appear to be unable or unwilling to truly solve our ongoing challenges related to homelessness, health care, mental health needs, and food instability across America?

I wonder if we will ever fully see that contrast and commit to solving it?

(Photo Bill Pike)

San Francisco Day Five: Point Reyes to Monterey

After breakfast, we quickly gathered our belongings and headed toward checking out.

In the parking lot, the Commander Supreme made her final checks, and our journey to the Point Reyes National Seashore started.

We traveled the back roads of California toward the visitor’s center. Wisps of low clouds, lots of twists and turns, rolling hills with pretty land, and massive redwoods greeted us. Occasionally, we encountered brave bicycle riders on these narrow roads that offered very few straight sections for easy peddling.

Upon our arrival at the Bear Valley Visitor Center in the Point Reyes National Seashore, we were greeted by a few quietly grazing deer in the rolling pastures around the building.

(Photo Bill Pike)

The visitor center has extremely helpful national park employees. No matter your questions, these knowledgeable and patient staff have the answers.

The center also has a nice layout of effective displays giving visitors a glimpse of what they might encounter during their visit.

From the visitor center, our goal was to visit the historical Point Reyes Lighthouse. The ride to the lighthouse was remarkable.

I’m sure I will repeat myself, but no matter where our eyes took us, we were greeted with striking scenery.

I didn’t expect to see beef and dairy cattle grazing on this magnificent land. But occasionally, we’d come across a weather battered farmhouse with barns and out buildings scattered around. I wondered about the loneliness that might brew in this isolated beauty.

Some of the pastures on the way to Point Reyes (Photo Bill Pike)

If you travel this road, you will come across the historic KPH Radio building. Set off the road, you will walk a straight path lined on both sides with magnificent Monterey cypress trees. This tree-lined walk toward the building will never leave your memory.

The walk toward the KPH building. (Photo Bill Pike)

It’s not long before we reach the parking area for the lighthouse.

According to the National Park Service, the Point Reyes Headlands ‘jut ten miles out to sea.’ This probe out into the Pacific Ocean creates a potential nautical challenge for ships venturing north of San Francisco.

In 1870, this lighthouse was constructed to serve as a warning to ship captains and their crews. In 1975, the United States Coast Guard put to rest the first light. A new automated light was installed adjacent to the original lighthouse.

To truly encounter this magnificent lighthouse, visitors must descend 313 steps. This requires an alert patience in going down and coming back up, but the challenge of the walk is worth it. You will not want to stop taking pictures.

The walk down. (Photo Bill Pike)

Additionally, park rangers are on site to answer questions and guide you. It is worth a chat alone to hear about the extreme weather conditions that impact Point Reyes.

Fog to the south (Photo Bill Pike)

On the steps back to the parking lot, we paused a couple of times, caught our breath, and admired the view.

(Photo Bill Pike)

We regrouped in the parking lot, and from there we made stops at Chimney Rock, South Beach, and briefly explored a trail that were an ideal habitat for elk. And in each of those treks, wildflowers greeted us.

From a trail looking toward the Pacific. (Photo Bill Pike)

Again, I reminded myself of the people who had the vision and the will to preserve this priceless national park.

Land worth preserving. (Photo Bill Pike)

As we worked our way out of the national park, we stopped at the Tavern X Market for a sandwich. After lunch, I noticed the sign ‘Happy Trails’ hanging over the parking lot exit. Hopefully, the traffic gods would grant us ‘happy trails’ during the remainder of our afternoon driving toward Monterey.

Now following an interstate route, we skirted past Oakland. From a distance, we could see its attempts to re-invent itself, though graffiti was still a dominant nuisance in some stretches.

Occasionally, the traffic snarled with slow downs, but we kept moving.

The closer to Monterey, the more frequently we began to see the impact of farming on the outskirts of the Salinas Valley. But when we left the interstate, the farming communities really came into focus. Sure there was equipment, but I was more drawn to the richness of soil.

That soil reminded me of deep shades of chocolate and roasted coffee beans contrasted with healthy rows of green. Those fields were a tribute to the artistry of the farmers and their farmhands who year after year grow our nutrition.

Approaching the city limits of Monterey, the waters of the Pacific changed the backdrop.

It was Sunday afternoon, Mother’s Day, Monterey was still restless.

Our hotel on a side street in the city came into view.

We checked in.

Friendly staff at the front desk, guided our footsteps toward the Alvarado Street Brewery for dinner.

The walk back in the cool coastal air prepped us for our collapse and sleep.

San Francisco Day Four: Angel Island

Saturday, May 10 was our transition day. We would be leaving San Francisco and exploring more of California.

Our day started with a disappointing breakfast and service at the hotel’s restaurant. Hampton Inn does breakfast better.

We checked out and made the short walk to rent the car.

This started well too. They couldn’t find the Commander’s original reservation. Once that was sorted out, the real excitement started—driving out of the city.

I only made one significant error in leaving the city, I missed the overlook stop for the Golden Gate Bridge.

From that miscue, we found our way into Tiburon. A pretty town on the bay. Here, we were to meet the Commander’s sister, Abby, husband, Art, Betsy’s niece, Ashley, husband Rob, and most importantly their precious daughter, Bridgette.

This would be the Commander’s first visit with Bridgette. She was excited.

Gradually, we all met in the designated parking lot to catch the ferry over to Angel’s Island.

The ferry ride to Angel Island is short and pretty. Views abound in every direction.

Angel Island Ferry (Photo Bill Pike)

Angel Island’s founding dates back to 1775 when the Spanish ship, San Carlos, entered San Francisco Bay.

If you make a trip to San Francisco, you must set aside time to visit Angel Island State Park. The beauty of the island and its impact on California and America are remarkable.

The island has been a “cattle ranch, U. S. Army post, from 1910-1940 the processing center for thousands of immigrants, and in World War II German and Japanese prisoners of war were held here.” (California State Parks)

Additionally, Angel Island was “a transition point for U.S. military personnel returning from the Pacific following World War II, the 50s and 60s it was the site of a Nike missile base, and today, two active Coast Guard stations make the island their home.” (California State Parks)

We opted to take a tram ride to assorted points around the island. This guided tour not only took us to remote points, but afforded us the opportunity to walk around at numerous stops. Many of the buildings from the island’s assorted uses are still in place. These snapshots into the past gave us a feel for how the immigration process worked. That important history combined with the island’s natural beauty makes quite a background for storytelling.

Assorted buildings Angel Island (Photo Bill Pike)

The shoreline is a mix of rolling hills filled with shrubs, trees, wildflowers, and rock. Most noticeable in the plant landscape is the Pride of Madeira (Echium candicans).

A stand out on the island (Photo Bill Pike)

We worked our way back to our entry point.

Soon the ferry had us back in Tiburon. Ashley and Rob led us to a waterfront restaurant, Sam’s, where we enjoyed a late lunch, and Bridgette continued to be a happy traveler.

It is always special to catch up with family, and Tiburon and Angel Island provided another pretty setting for a good visit. We said our goodbyes, and started our drive to Novato.

In Novato, we checked into our hotel. Then, we opted for some more steps as we took a short hike at the Buck Gulch Falls Trail, a part of the Ignacio Valley Open Space Preserve.

After the hike, we stopped at the HopMonk Tavern for dinner. This is basically a beer bar with live music. A very competent trio was playing, and I enjoyed a highly praised California beer, Pliny The Elder.

Our drive back to the hotel was quiet.

Tomorrow would bring another opportunity to explore a section of the California coast where we had never visited.

And that made me think more about Angel Island.

From its first Spanish explorers to the last immigrants, I wonder where they found their courage to leave their homelands and make this journey?

Immigration Bell Angel Island (Photo Bill Pike)

San Francisco Day Three: Golden State Park

My old body told me I needed to go for a run.

I put on my running gear, did some stretches, and found my way down to the lobby and out into the cool 52 degree air.

The sun was up. My goal was to run along Fisherman’s Wharf. I managed to run just past Pier 1.

This was a flat run, no challenging San Francisco hills.

Even though it was early, there was lots of activity.

Seagulls were scavenging trash bins.

I could hear the early morning squawking of the harbor seals.

Delivery workers were hustling in various spots along the wharf. Most of them could make their deliveries blindfolded.

Caretakers were hosing down entrances to dock areas, public restrooms were tidied up, and trash bins emptied.

There were runners, walkers, and bicycle riders. Some acknowledge my timid wave or quiet good morning. A few were in their zone focused, oblivious of an old fool from Virginia.

A solitary homeless man striding at a hurried pace was yelling into his phone, “I’m going to kill him, I’m going to kill him.”

I came upon the architecturally stunning San Francisco Ferry Building. This eye catching structure opened in 1898.

Before the construction of bridges, the Ferry Building was the base for the ferries that brought people in and out of the city. Today, in addition to being a smaller hub for ferries the building houses office space and a food hall.

The centerpiece for the building is a 245 foot clock tower.

I made it back to the hotel. Cleaned up, and we had breakfast.

After breakfast, we quickly organized ourselves, and headed down to meet our Uber.

It is interesting to note the differences in the personalities of the Uber drivers. I’m sure the Commander Supreme cringes, but I always attempt to chat a bit with them.

The driver this morning was friendly. However, he was more interested in pitching a ride with him to Santa Cruz. We had to refocus him on our goal for the morning— Golden State Park.

He did attempt to use music to soothe us. When we told him that we were from Virginia, he played the John Denver song “ Take Me Home Country Roads.” The lyrics mention West Virginia. I was not impressed with the driver’s smoozing.

Once we figured out our drop off point, our exploration started of this 1,017 acre park. If you travel to San Francisco, and you have a pretty day, you must come to this park. I say that because the park offers something for everyone.

Our feet did not grace all 1,017 acres, but at times we felt like we had.

Our exploration started at the de Young Museum. Here there is an amazing observation deck. Helpful museum personnel guided us to the deck. Good news, visitors can go to the observation deck for free. Admission to the museum and its exhibits is separate.

I will admit that I was powerfully tempted to tour the exhibit: Paul McCartney Photographs 1963-64: Eyes of the Storm. I passed. In walking to the museum, I had seen some of the park’s beauty. I wanted to explore and see more. Sorry, Sir Paul, maybe another time.

A tempting exhibit (Photo Bill Pike)

Twelve unique gardens make up the park. We didn’t see them all. But, the ones we saw were stunning.

Our first stop was the Japanese Tea Garden. The origins of this garden date back to 1894. The plantings, layout, and the Japanese architecture are nicely synced together.

(Photo Bill Pike)

A bonus in Golden Gate Park is the San Francisco Botanical Garden. These 55 acres featuring over 8,000 plants from around the world doesn’t disappoint. Visitors can roam from an Andean Cloud Forest to Temperate Asia.

Most impressive to me was the Redwood Trail. This section featured the Coast Redwoods. In a setting similar to a coastal redwood forest, there is a quiet respect for these majestic trees. Adding to that tranquility are over 100 species of native California plants perfectly matched in the cool shade of the redwoods.

Beautiful trunk bark of a Coast Redwood (Photo Bill Pike)

As the morning progressed, we were conscious of timing our stay for a walk to the Beach Chalet for lunch. It is a long walk to this ocean view restaurant, but worth the walk. Of course, I made the walk longer and more adventurous, when I suggested the wrong direction.

After lunch, we took a Uber back into the city to visit Amoeba Music, the world’s largest independent record store. I probably could have spent a couple of days there. I think we were out of the store in less than an hour.

Our next destination was to find the famous Painted Ladies houses. This required walking through the Panhandle an extension of Golden Gate Park. The Panhandle is pretty green space. It provides multiple locations for sun worshipers to start their tan lines before summer arrives.

Gradually, we made our way to Alamo Square, also a park where the Painted Ladies houses come into view.

The Painted Ladies are Victorian and Edwardian style houses that regained popularity in the 1960s when new owners started repainting them. Often the repainting was completed in a variety of colors as a way to enhance their architectural style. Located on Steiner Street, the houses have been seen in assorted movies, television shows, and marketing campaigns.

From here we took an Uber back to the hotel. We had a bit of quiet time before heading down to the lobby for happy hour.

A couple from Canada sat across from us. They were in San Francisco for her husband to participate in a training and transition program at Guide Dogs For The Blind. We learned a lot about this outstanding organization.

After happy hour, we opted to walk back to the Boudin Bakery for dinner.

Another hearty meal at the Boudin Bakery (Photo Bill Pike)

We had a nice dinner at Boudin, and when we arrived back at our room we were beat.

Tomorrow, we would say goodbye to San Francisco. We talked briefly about our Saturday plans including renting a car.

We had another good day of walking right at nine miles

Today was another example of admiring the vision of people to preserve and protect land that has been converted into parks for communities to enjoy.

Golden Gate Park is an outstanding example of how space can be preserved in a variety of unique ways.

I’m thankful for people who have the vision to value how land can be creatively saved for the good of all.

I hope we can hold on to these priceless places forever.

Thanks California

The Carmel Pine Cone
Volume III No. 24 https://carmelpinecone.com June 13-19, 2025

TRUSTED BY LOCALS AND LOVED BY VISITORS SINCE 1915

Memorable trip
Dear Editor,

In early May, my wife and I had the privilege of exploring California from Point Reyes to Point Lobos. No matter where our plans took us, we enjoyed our journey.

The enjoyment of our visit was grounded in the vision and will of Californians to preserve such precious land.

No matter the vistas in the seaside parklands or along the 17 Mile Drive, we cherished the restless Pacific, its stone masonry on the shoreline, and the pretty blooming flowers along many trails.

Our lives have been enriched by graceful redwoods, the backstories found in Alcatraz and Angel islands, the coffee-colored soil in farmland near Watsonville, and the magnificent Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Additionally, we were impressed by the patience and wisdom of employees in the state and national parks, appreciated the knowledgeable waitstaffs in every restaurant, and were thankful for an understanding man, a transplant from Austin, who sensed we were lost in locating the famous Fairytale Cottages in Carmel-By-The- Sea. This stranger might have saved our almost fifty years of marriage.

In Robinson Jeffers’ poem “The Beaks of Eagles,” he writes about the life of a mother eagle. The author notes: “The world has changed in her time,” and despite these challenging changes, the mother eagle continues to find the way to survive.

Like the mother eagle, it is my hope that California with stubborn persistence will repel any wacky Washington attempts to dismantle these priceless plots of unparalleled beauty.

Our aging hearts will hold this trip forever, thank you.

                                                               Bill Pike,
                                                       Richmond, Va.

Author’s note: Today, I was honored to have this letter to the editor published in the Carmel Pine Cone, a weekly newspaper in Carmel-By-The-Sea, California.

Coastline, Point Lobos, California (Photo Bill Pike)

Day One: San Francisco

In the summer of 1980, I made my first trip to California. For the Commander Supreme and me that was a before kids trip.

A highlight of that trip was a drive up the coast from Los Angeles to San Francisco. My sister-in-law, Abby, was our tour guide.

Three years ago, we were all set to fly to San Francisco to attend the wedding of the Commander Supreme’s niece, Ashley. The day before we were scheduled to fly, thinking she had a sinus infection, the Commander tested positive for COVID-19.

Obviously, we canceled the trip, but the Commander was able to hang on to the flight for the future.

So on Wednesday, May 7, 2025, we boarded a Breeze Airways Airbus A-220 in Richmond and flew direct to San Francisco.

By 6:00 a.m. we were in the car and driving toward the Richmond airport.

Other than a van driver from the extended stay parking lot who didn’t know the details of his job, we had no challenges getting into the terminal.

We cleared all of the screening hurdles. Our walk to the gate was leisurely. Knowing that we would be sitting for a long time, I walked a lot in the terminal.

Eventually, the plane arrived from Charleston.

The boarding process went quickly.

The A220 seating configuration is three seats and two seats. The Commander booked us a two seat reservation with extra leg room. This arrangement was a nice surprise from the normal sardine box.

Even though, we boarded quickly, we sat too long on the tarmac before heading to the runway.

The captain of the plane told us to expect a few bumps as we settled in for the cross country flight.

Breeze is a no frills airline. No monitors on the back of the seats for watching movies. I had to hope I could download their wireless access correctly.

For now, I focused on the landscape out my window for a distraction. I love how the topography of America changes as we fly west. The hills, east coast mountains, the flat plains, the snow covered Rockies, wide sections of deserts, more hills, and finally the coastal plain heading into San Francisco.

Snow topped mountains flying west. (Photo Bill Pike)

Early in the flight, I nodded off for some nano naps. Read from Richmond editor and writer, Tom Allen’s second book—“Roll With It: encountering grace, grins, gridlock, and God in everyday life.” After a few chapters of Tom’s book, I switched over to Tristan Gooley’s The Secret World Of Weather: How to Read Signs in Every Cloud, Breeze, Hill, Street, Plant, Animal, and Dewdrop (Natural Navigation).

At some point, I opened up my laptop computer and started to write. For a long stretch, this was a good distraction.

The bumps, the turbulence on the flight were minimal.

Gradually, the plane slowed. We were notified that our descent into San Francisco had started.

I made sure everything was securely in my backpack. Then, I was glued to my window tracking the landscape changes.

The plane made a graceful landing. We departed the plane easily. The next hurdle was finding our way in the pretty San Francisco airport.

With adequate signage guiding us, we exited the terminal to a line of taxis. We were assigned to the first taxi in line. The driver helped us with our luggage, the Commander gave him the hotel’s address, off we went.

Our driver was very good. He skillfully maneuvered us through traffic, patiently answered questions, and never appeared rattled by wacky moves from other drivers.


He even explained Waymo to us. Waymo is the driverless Google car.

Our frequently spotted Waymo (Photo Bill Pike)

At the Alton Hotel, the driver dropped us in the perfect spot, helped with our bags, and we wished him the best.

The Commander’s detailed planning made for a seamless checkin and a surprise room upgrade.

We settled quickly into our and room, and promptly left heading to the In and Out Burger a block away from the hotel.

Until Saturday morning The Alton would be our home. Located in the Fisherman’s Wharf area of the city, the hotel still had a new construction feel to it.

We arrived just in time at In and Out. By minutes, we beat the daily lunch hour surge. The In and Out chain is a West Coast staple. If you’ve never had one of their burgers, don’t turn it down.

As soon as we finished our burgers, we hit the pavement.

One thing you quickly learn about San Francisco is the terrain. Maybe the reason Tony Bennett “left his heart in San Francisco” is that it died walking up one of its hills.

The contrast from the relative flatness at Fisherman’s Wharf to the extreme steepness of the hills on either end of Lombard Street is significant.

Our first stop was the Coit Tower. The tower sits on the top of Telegraph Hill.

The walk up to the tower is a heart thumper. But the vistas from the park at the top, and the views at the tip of the tower are worth it.

Coit Tower was built from 1932-33. It has 234 steps to the top. The tower is also graced with fresco murals.

Coit Tower (Photo Bill Pike)

From Coit Tower, we walked back toward Lombard Street. To get to the other end of Lombard Street requires another steep decent and climb.

This side of Lombard Street is known as the “Crookedest Street In The World.” It is interesting to watch cars handle the sharp turns along the well maintained lawns and gardens.

A car heading down Lombard (Photo Bill Pike)

We shifted our walk into the North Beach neighborhood. Here a mix of houses and business caught our attention. Pretty cathedrals against a blue sky backdrop were hard to miss.

A pretty cathedral (Photo Bill Pike)

Even on the first day of vacation, I could not resist going into Cole Hardware. Founded in the 1920s, the store and its contents are very appealing. Maybe this motto explains the sustained success of the store: “There are no strangers here, just friends we haven’t met.” The store even has a cooler of pies from The Pie Company based out of Ripon, California.

Next, we worked our way to the famous City Lights Bookstore. Founded in 1953 by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti and Peter D. Martin, this is one of those special independent bookstores that has managed to beat the odds. If you love books, you must stop.

The famous bookstore (Photo Bill Pike)

Then, we took a brief walk on the fringes of Chinatown. Lots of shop owner energy was present among the diverse merchandise with customers haggling for the best price. ‘

As we started our walk back to the hotel, Italian food shops tempted us with their aromas and displays, but we kept moving.

At the hotel, we collapsed, but made sure we were up and heading toward the free happy hour in the lobby at five. A nice glass of wine for the Commander and a California Blonde Ale from the Eel River Brewing Company for me helped to bring our busy day to a close.

For dinner, we made the short walk from the hotel to Cioppinos, an Italian restaurant. The food and the service were good.

After our filling dinner, we were really ready to collapse. The Commander’s “fit bit” had us over eight miles with most of those steps recorded during our afternoon trek.

At the end of the day, I’m remembering the architecture as our taxi driver drove us further into the city. No part of a plot of land is wasted. Homes and businesses are stacked up on every hillside throughout the city.

We saw lots of pretty gardens and shrubs along the way. Blooms of all shapes, sizes, and colors added to the charm and character of the neighborhoods.

Pretty blooms (Photo Bill Pike)

At the end of our first day, I’m thankful for my Commander Supreme. If the remainder of the trip is as good as the first afternoon, then we’re going to be remembering this trek for a long, long time.

A tour of Alcatraz awaits us on Thursday.