Denali

Probably a miracle, but every member of our group was on the Denali bus at 5:30 a.m.

(Photo Bill Pike)

Our driver gave us lots of information about park rules and regulations including how we were to handle ourselves on the bus.

The driver/guide was in constant chatter. This was mostly scripted, but with occasional personal comments.

Our bus (Photo Bill Pike)

The bus was equipped with a camera that allowed the driver to zoom in on wildlife sightings. Flip down monitors were scattered throughout the bus.

These monitors allowed riders to see the wildlife that had been alertly spotted by a fellow passenger.

If a passenger shouted out animal, the bus came to a halt.

The passenger who made the sighting then described what he/she spotted and every eyeball on the bus focused on that speck of white. In this case it was a Dall sheep.

Binoculars and cameras with expensive lens were used to increase the chances of finding a moose having his antlers manicured at a Denali spa.

In truth, the bus’s exterior camera was excellent in picking a few of the finds made by passengers.

For me, the sightings of wildlife both real and doubtful became tiresome. Alaska has done a good job of marketing the state’s wildlife.

The well maintained road gave us clear views. (Photo Bill Pike)

However, the wildlife are coy about when and if they will make an appearance. One source I spoke with on the condition of anonymity stated that the wildlife aren’t pleased with their current contract.

Our five hour tour tallied no moose, one possible sighting of a bear—maybe a brown boulder, red squirrels, a hare, the state bird— the willow ptarmigan.

While on this tour, we received water, a box of snacks, and a nice booklet with excellent photos about Alaska.

Again, the scarcity of wildlife sightings drew me more to the landscape. During our drive—permafrost, mountains, vast meadows, isolated ponds, a river, and rugged rock formations were all around us.

One of those clear views (Photo Bill Pike)

The Denali Park road crosses the Teklanika River. According to several sources, the Teklanika is a 91 mile long tributary of the Nenana River. Additionally, this section of the park features a popular campground with 53 sites for camping. The National Park Service manages the campground.

Teklanika River (Photo Bill Pike)

As far as the famous peak, Denali, the mountain was as bashful as the wildlife. Lots of clouds kept us from seeing Denali. Once again, a source I spoke with on the condition of anonymity stated that there is a tension between the cloud cover union representatives and the advisors representing the peak.

No matter the direction, the landscape was special. (Photo Bill Pike)

Overall, it was a good ride. However, I wonder if the five hours could have been compacted.

Our competent driver and guide deposited us safely back at the lobby. We took a break in our rooms, and then regrouped for lunch. Somehow, that ride had made us hungry.

After lunch, we check out a few shops.

My two wise friends (Photo Betsy Pike)

Then Betsy, Dan, and I took the free shuttle to the Horseshoe Lake Trail. It was here that we were rewarded—we saw a moose, a female moose, grazing in the shallows of the lake.

Our first moose sighting (Photo Betsy Pike)

Luckily for us this moose, seemed to sense that she was a photo op for tourists. She stayed around munching for longer than tourists anxious for a real moose sighting deserved. Again, the trail and all that surrounded it are quite pretty including several beaver dams along the way.

Beaver dam (Photo Bill Pike)

From there, we caught the shuttle back to the Denali Visitors Center. This was a good spot for all information related to Denali. The place was packed.

Just as our shuttle was leaving to take us back to the hotel, our alert driver spotted a moose casually munching on some weeds around one of the parking lots.

Our second moose (Photo Bill Pike)

Back at the hotel, we made a reservation for dinner and headed back to our rooms.

The Commander had picked up an annoying head cold. We weren’t surprised at this intrusion. No matter if we were on the ship, train, or bus we heard an assortment of coughs and sneezes.

In preparing for dinner, I was hoping to take a hot shower. Instead, I took a shower with a lousy temperature. At some point, Holland America must make some upgrades to this facility. It is starting to look a little weary.


After dinner, we took two walks. First, a river walk behind the hotel that took in a variety of landscape plantings and the rapids of the river rushing by in the background. On two occasions, we saw rafters rolling by quickly.

River behind the hotel (Photo Bill Pike)

Our second walk, took us across the highway, and we walked the boardwalk of restaurants and shops that wanted our wallets. We obliged by purchasing some ice cream.

On the walk back across the highway, we figured out our departure plans for Wednesday morning.

We had to roll out early on Wednesday, but not at 5:30.

I’ve enjoyed this stop in Denali.

While it is true that the viewing of wildlife wasn’t as grand as advertised, and despite never having a clear view of the famous peak, Denali, I would not trade this stop for anything else.

I’m sorry to be redundant, but the beauty of the land and the water makes up the difference.

Clearly, the good Lord’s angels were at their best when this precious land was carved out.

From the Horseshoe Lake Trail (Photo Bill Pike)

Anchorage to Denali

On Sunday evening, we made sure that we had properly tagged our bags for their 6:00 a.m. pickup on Monday.

Today, we travel by train on the McKinley Explorer for a little over seven hours to Denali. Once we are settled into our lodging in Denali, the Commander and I are scheduled to go out on a guided hike.

The train ride to Denali National Park was at times indescribable. Sure the occasional sightings of wildlife added to the journey, but in truth for me the best part of the train ride was the scenery.

One of the early water views from the train (Photo Bill Pike)

I could have taken a million photos. No matter where my eyes took me, no matter the terrain, didn’t matter if it included water views, mountains, vegetation— what I saw was stunning.

Rich forest along the way (Photo Bill Pike)

Added to that was the high quality of the train’s personnel who gave us local knowledge about where we were and what we were seeing.

A pretty view from the back of the train (Photo Bill Pike)

This quality of personnel also included the waitstaff, and yes, the kitchen staff. They were exceptionally gifted in providing hospitality. I wonder how the human resources department for Holland American finds these good people?

Our lunch in the dining car was an unexpected surprise. Quite simply, the food was delicious. The triple berry tart for dessert tempted me to have one every hour for the remainder of our trip.

Gradually, the train chugged into the Denali depot. There a bus picked us up and drove us to our lodging for the night. The Denali Lodge was owned and managed by Holland America.

As soon as we departed the bus and walked in the lobby, there was a massive power failure. Not what management or guests wanted or needed.

We found our rooms. Our luggage had already arrived. There was a bit of clumsiness with the power out, but we figured it out.

With our rooms secured, we regrouped at the bar.

Even with the chaos of the power outage, the staff kept their cool. Our waitress told us we would need to pay for drinks in cash, and that cold sandwiches were being provided for free. We ordered our drinks, and in a few minutes our sandwiches arrived.

My pals (Photo taken by our waitress)

Betsy and I had to be back in the lobby by 6:30 p.m. for our guided tour. We made it back without any trouble.

Eight people had signed up for the tour of the Oxbow Trail. Only six of us were present for the tour.

It was a cool, rainy evening, but the personality of our guide and his expertise made up for the conditions. Any reluctance we had to attend because of the weather conditions was quickly removed.

We learned so much about Denali and the trail we were walking.

Pretty flowers at the Visitor Center along the Oxbow Trail (Photo Bill Pike)

Our guide informed us about the twenty seven species of mosquitos that grace this part of Alaska. He also shared insights about the red squirrel’s habits, winter moose scat, the native trees, wildflowers, and the pretty north flowing Nenana River.

The Nenana River (Photo Bill Pike)

With regard to the power failure at The Denali Lodge, our guide told us that repairs can take time in this remote environment.

Often, linemen from the power company must travel two hours from Fairbanks to Denali. Despite this information, he was hopeful that luck might be on our side.

Our ride back to the Denali Lodge was pleasant as the Oxbow Trail had been a treat. I would recommend this 1.5 mile loop to anyone. Our guide gave us an insightful orientation to Denali.

Maybe, the travel gods were looking out for us. At some point after, 10:30 p.m. the power returned.

We had to be up early on Tuesday morning. We were all scheduled to take a five hour guided tour inside the Denali park. The tour started at 5:30 a.m. Our ride for the tour was to be a school bus.

Nothing like a train ride through stunning landscapes (Photo Bill Pike)

Whittier to Anchorage

I was thankful for the deep sleep that kept me from feeling or hearing the ship’s silent docking in Whittier.

Dock area in Whittier (Photo Bill Pike)

This morning, we worked our way to the busy Lido dining room. I think everyone had the same idea—grab breakfast, woof it down, and hustle back to recheck our room.

Took a few minutes, but we found a table. Worked our way through the assorted food stations, and made our breakfast choices. Back at the table, Butch and Marian found us, and we had breakfast with them.

As we ate, we compared our prep notes for leaving the ship, or as the cruise director from Holland America likes to say—disembarkation.


After breakfast, we quickly worked our way back to the room. There we made a final check to ensure we were not leaving anything behind. This included rechecking our backpacks to make sure that everything we needed for today was scrunched into place.

When our letter of the alphabet was called, we worked our way down to the gangplank for departure. A few raindrops were sprinkling down. Most of the short walk to where our train was waiting was covered.

Once aboard the train, we received an orientation about what to expect during the two hour and thirty minute ride. The train had large windows and a clear glass roof.

Looking out the train’s windows (Photo Bill Pike)

All along the route, employees described where we were and what we were viewing. Early on, we saw two moose grazing. Narrow waterfalls appeared in some spots.

The ride became interesting when the train arrived at the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel.

According to the City of Whittier, this tunnel is 2.5 miles in length making it the longest highway tunnel in America.

The tunnel has some additional unique qualities—the tunnel is one way. It is used by cars and trains. The road bed is designed to allow cars to ride over the train tracks.

Two more distinctions for the tunnel, it is designed to withstand minus 40 degree Fahrenheit temperatures and 150 mph winds. 

This single lane traffic with an alternating schedule saved taxpayers millions by not having to construct a second tunnel.

As the train continues to push toward Anchorage, we can see Cook Inlet. Train personnel tell us about the dangerous mudflats at low tide.

A section of Cook Inlet (Photo Bill Pike)

Sadly, people have lost their lives in the mudflats. The mud is like a quicksand. That mud will not let a person go. When the cold water tide returns, you know what happens.

We make it to Anchorage. A shuttle bus takes us into the city. A section of the civic center is used as a staging area by Holland America.

We experience a bit of disorganization, but everything works out. We were able to deposit our backpacks in a secure area and from there we walked to the 49th Brewery.

My well-made beer (Photo Bill Pike)

This is a huge facility with a large crowd already in place for lunch. It took us a while to be seated. The Commander and I were crunched for time as we had a 2 p.m. trolley tour of Anchorage booked.

When our lunch arrived, we ate quickly. With a faster pace, we walked toward the meeting point for the tour. Remarkably, we arrived on time.

The tour was good. We saw a lot. A knowledgeable tour guide provided good local stories about fishing for salmon, the devastation and tragedies from the 1964 earthquake, seaplanes, and an assortment of facts about moose and bears.

Hopeful fishermen (Photo Bill Pike)

After the tour, I returned to take a photo of the Anchorage Log Cabin Visitor Information Center. The cabin has a sod roof and is surrounded by stunning flowers.

(Photo Bill Pike)

Additionally, I took a photo of a blue bear statue. Apparently, numerous bear statues are located around Anchorage.

(Photo Bill Pike)

We walked back to the civic center, grabbed our backpacks, and made the short walk to check into the Captain Cook Hotel.

Took the elevator up to our room, oriented and organized ourselves, and reconnected with our pals.

With our friends, we worked to find a restaurant for dinner. There were multiple restaurants close to the hotel, but cruise shippers like us were already in lines waiting to be seated. Eventually, we found a nice place and settled in for our meal.

After dinner, our group made plans for breakfast and our early morning train departure to Denali.

From our hotel room window, we had a nice view overlooking a section of Anchorage. However, I will confess, I miss my nightly view from the porch outside our room on the cruise ship.

Tonight, there will be no watching the ripple of the water from the movement of the ship, no snow capped mountains beyond the shoreline, and no sinking orange light as a setting sun slips behind charcoal clouds.