Denali

Probably a miracle, but every member of our group was on the Denali bus at 5:30 a.m.

(Photo Bill Pike)

Our driver gave us lots of information about park rules and regulations including how we were to handle ourselves on the bus.

The driver/guide was in constant chatter. This was mostly scripted, but with occasional personal comments.

Our bus (Photo Bill Pike)

The bus was equipped with a camera that allowed the driver to zoom in on wildlife sightings. Flip down monitors were scattered throughout the bus.

These monitors allowed riders to see the wildlife that had been alertly spotted by a fellow passenger.

If a passenger shouted out animal, the bus came to a halt.

The passenger who made the sighting then described what he/she spotted and every eyeball on the bus focused on that speck of white. In this case it was a Dall sheep.

Binoculars and cameras with expensive lens were used to increase the chances of finding a moose having his antlers manicured at a Denali spa.

In truth, the bus’s exterior camera was excellent in picking a few of the finds made by passengers.

For me, the sightings of wildlife both real and doubtful became tiresome. Alaska has done a good job of marketing the state’s wildlife.

The well maintained road gave us clear views. (Photo Bill Pike)

However, the wildlife are coy about when and if they will make an appearance. One source I spoke with on the condition of anonymity stated that the wildlife aren’t pleased with their current contract.

Our five hour tour tallied no moose, one possible sighting of a bear—maybe a brown boulder, red squirrels, a hare, the state bird— the willow ptarmigan.

While on this tour, we received water, a box of snacks, and a nice booklet with excellent photos about Alaska.

Again, the scarcity of wildlife sightings drew me more to the landscape. During our drive—permafrost, mountains, vast meadows, isolated ponds, a river, and rugged rock formations were all around us.

One of those clear views (Photo Bill Pike)

The Denali Park road crosses the Teklanika River. According to several sources, the Teklanika is a 91 mile long tributary of the Nenana River. Additionally, this section of the park features a popular campground with 53 sites for camping. The National Park Service manages the campground.

Teklanika River (Photo Bill Pike)

As far as the famous peak, Denali, the mountain was as bashful as the wildlife. Lots of clouds kept us from seeing Denali. Once again, a source I spoke with on the condition of anonymity stated that there is a tension between the cloud cover union representatives and the advisors representing the peak.

No matter the direction, the landscape was special. (Photo Bill Pike)

Overall, it was a good ride. However, I wonder if the five hours could have been compacted.

Our competent driver and guide deposited us safely back at the lobby. We took a break in our rooms, and then regrouped for lunch. Somehow, that ride had made us hungry.

After lunch, we check out a few shops.

My two wise friends (Photo Betsy Pike)

Then Betsy, Dan, and I took the free shuttle to the Horseshoe Lake Trail. It was here that we were rewarded—we saw a moose, a female moose, grazing in the shallows of the lake.

Our first moose sighting (Photo Betsy Pike)

Luckily for us this moose, seemed to sense that she was a photo op for tourists. She stayed around munching for longer than tourists anxious for a real moose sighting deserved. Again, the trail and all that surrounded it are quite pretty including several beaver dams along the way.

Beaver dam (Photo Bill Pike)

From there, we caught the shuttle back to the Denali Visitors Center. This was a good spot for all information related to Denali. The place was packed.

Just as our shuttle was leaving to take us back to the hotel, our alert driver spotted a moose casually munching on some weeds around one of the parking lots.

Our second moose (Photo Bill Pike)

Back at the hotel, we made a reservation for dinner and headed back to our rooms.

The Commander had picked up an annoying head cold. We weren’t surprised at this intrusion. No matter if we were on the ship, train, or bus we heard an assortment of coughs and sneezes.

In preparing for dinner, I was hoping to take a hot shower. Instead, I took a shower with a lousy temperature. At some point, Holland America must make some upgrades to this facility. It is starting to look a little weary.


After dinner, we took two walks. First, a river walk behind the hotel that took in a variety of landscape plantings and the rapids of the river rushing by in the background. On two occasions, we saw rafters rolling by quickly.

River behind the hotel (Photo Bill Pike)

Our second walk, took us across the highway, and we walked the boardwalk of restaurants and shops that wanted our wallets. We obliged by purchasing some ice cream.

On the walk back across the highway, we figured out our departure plans for Wednesday morning.

We had to roll out early on Wednesday, but not at 5:30.

I’ve enjoyed this stop in Denali.

While it is true that the viewing of wildlife wasn’t as grand as advertised, and despite never having a clear view of the famous peak, Denali, I would not trade this stop for anything else.

I’m sorry to be redundant, but the beauty of the land and the water makes up the difference.

Clearly, the good Lord’s angels were at their best when this precious land was carved out.

From the Horseshoe Lake Trail (Photo Bill Pike)

Anchorage to Denali

On Sunday evening, we made sure that we had properly tagged our bags for their 6:00 a.m. pickup on Monday.

Today, we travel by train on the McKinley Explorer for a little over seven hours to Denali. Once we are settled into our lodging in Denali, the Commander and I are scheduled to go out on a guided hike.

The train ride to Denali National Park was at times indescribable. Sure the occasional sightings of wildlife added to the journey, but in truth for me the best part of the train ride was the scenery.

One of the early water views from the train (Photo Bill Pike)

I could have taken a million photos. No matter where my eyes took me, no matter the terrain, didn’t matter if it included water views, mountains, vegetation— what I saw was stunning.

Rich forest along the way (Photo Bill Pike)

Added to that was the high quality of the train’s personnel who gave us local knowledge about where we were and what we were seeing.

A pretty view from the back of the train (Photo Bill Pike)

This quality of personnel also included the waitstaff, and yes, the kitchen staff. They were exceptionally gifted in providing hospitality. I wonder how the human resources department for Holland American finds these good people?

Our lunch in the dining car was an unexpected surprise. Quite simply, the food was delicious. The triple berry tart for dessert tempted me to have one every hour for the remainder of our trip.

Gradually, the train chugged into the Denali depot. There a bus picked us up and drove us to our lodging for the night. The Denali Lodge was owned and managed by Holland America.

As soon as we departed the bus and walked in the lobby, there was a massive power failure. Not what management or guests wanted or needed.

We found our rooms. Our luggage had already arrived. There was a bit of clumsiness with the power out, but we figured it out.

With our rooms secured, we regrouped at the bar.

Even with the chaos of the power outage, the staff kept their cool. Our waitress told us we would need to pay for drinks in cash, and that cold sandwiches were being provided for free. We ordered our drinks, and in a few minutes our sandwiches arrived.

My pals (Photo taken by our waitress)

Betsy and I had to be back in the lobby by 6:30 p.m. for our guided tour. We made it back without any trouble.

Eight people had signed up for the tour of the Oxbow Trail. Only six of us were present for the tour.

It was a cool, rainy evening, but the personality of our guide and his expertise made up for the conditions. Any reluctance we had to attend because of the weather conditions was quickly removed.

We learned so much about Denali and the trail we were walking.

Pretty flowers at the Visitor Center along the Oxbow Trail (Photo Bill Pike)

Our guide informed us about the twenty seven species of mosquitos that grace this part of Alaska. He also shared insights about the red squirrel’s habits, winter moose scat, the native trees, wildflowers, and the pretty north flowing Nenana River.

The Nenana River (Photo Bill Pike)

With regard to the power failure at The Denali Lodge, our guide told us that repairs can take time in this remote environment.

Often, linemen from the power company must travel two hours from Fairbanks to Denali. Despite this information, he was hopeful that luck might be on our side.

Our ride back to the Denali Lodge was pleasant as the Oxbow Trail had been a treat. I would recommend this 1.5 mile loop to anyone. Our guide gave us an insightful orientation to Denali.

Maybe, the travel gods were looking out for us. At some point after, 10:30 p.m. the power returned.

We had to be up early on Tuesday morning. We were all scheduled to take a five hour guided tour inside the Denali park. The tour started at 5:30 a.m. Our ride for the tour was to be a school bus.

Nothing like a train ride through stunning landscapes (Photo Bill Pike)

Whittier to Anchorage

I was thankful for the deep sleep that kept me from feeling or hearing the ship’s silent docking in Whittier.

Dock area in Whittier (Photo Bill Pike)

This morning, we worked our way to the busy Lido dining room. I think everyone had the same idea—grab breakfast, woof it down, and hustle back to recheck our room.

Took a few minutes, but we found a table. Worked our way through the assorted food stations, and made our breakfast choices. Back at the table, Butch and Marian found us, and we had breakfast with them.

As we ate, we compared our prep notes for leaving the ship, or as the cruise director from Holland America likes to say—disembarkation.


After breakfast, we quickly worked our way back to the room. There we made a final check to ensure we were not leaving anything behind. This included rechecking our backpacks to make sure that everything we needed for today was scrunched into place.

When our letter of the alphabet was called, we worked our way down to the gangplank for departure. A few raindrops were sprinkling down. Most of the short walk to where our train was waiting was covered.

Once aboard the train, we received an orientation about what to expect during the two hour and thirty minute ride. The train had large windows and a clear glass roof.

Looking out the train’s windows (Photo Bill Pike)

All along the route, employees described where we were and what we were viewing. Early on, we saw two moose grazing. Narrow waterfalls appeared in some spots.

The ride became interesting when the train arrived at the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel.

According to the City of Whittier, this tunnel is 2.5 miles in length making it the longest highway tunnel in America.

The tunnel has some additional unique qualities—the tunnel is one way. It is used by cars and trains. The road bed is designed to allow cars to ride over the train tracks.

Two more distinctions for the tunnel, it is designed to withstand minus 40 degree Fahrenheit temperatures and 150 mph winds. 

This single lane traffic with an alternating schedule saved taxpayers millions by not having to construct a second tunnel.

As the train continues to push toward Anchorage, we can see Cook Inlet. Train personnel tell us about the dangerous mudflats at low tide.

A section of Cook Inlet (Photo Bill Pike)

Sadly, people have lost their lives in the mudflats. The mud is like a quicksand. That mud will not let a person go. When the cold water tide returns, you know what happens.

We make it to Anchorage. A shuttle bus takes us into the city. A section of the civic center is used as a staging area by Holland America.

We experience a bit of disorganization, but everything works out. We were able to deposit our backpacks in a secure area and from there we walked to the 49th Brewery.

My well-made beer (Photo Bill Pike)

This is a huge facility with a large crowd already in place for lunch. It took us a while to be seated. The Commander and I were crunched for time as we had a 2 p.m. trolley tour of Anchorage booked.

When our lunch arrived, we ate quickly. With a faster pace, we walked toward the meeting point for the tour. Remarkably, we arrived on time.

The tour was good. We saw a lot. A knowledgeable tour guide provided good local stories about fishing for salmon, the devastation and tragedies from the 1964 earthquake, seaplanes, and an assortment of facts about moose and bears.

Hopeful fishermen (Photo Bill Pike)

After the tour, I returned to take a photo of the Anchorage Log Cabin Visitor Information Center. The cabin has a sod roof and is surrounded by stunning flowers.

(Photo Bill Pike)

Additionally, I took a photo of a blue bear statue. Apparently, numerous bear statues are located around Anchorage.

(Photo Bill Pike)

We walked back to the civic center, grabbed our backpacks, and made the short walk to check into the Captain Cook Hotel.

Took the elevator up to our room, oriented and organized ourselves, and reconnected with our pals.

With our friends, we worked to find a restaurant for dinner. There were multiple restaurants close to the hotel, but cruise shippers like us were already in lines waiting to be seated. Eventually, we found a nice place and settled in for our meal.

After dinner, our group made plans for breakfast and our early morning train departure to Denali.

From our hotel room window, we had a nice view overlooking a section of Anchorage. However, I will confess, I miss my nightly view from the porch outside our room on the cruise ship.

Tonight, there will be no watching the ripple of the water from the movement of the ship, no snow capped mountains beyond the shoreline, and no sinking orange light as a setting sun slips behind charcoal clouds.

More Glacier Bay

Ok, my first photo this morning was taken at 4:50 a.m.

Sunrise July 5, 2025 (Photo Bill Pike)

I think the photo is a keeper.

For you late sleepers out there, I’m not your guy for sleeping late.

Since arriving in Vancouver, my old body sleeps, but my old body wakes up early too.

I’m also beginning to think that the sun doesn’t sleep in this part of the world. It is light when I go to bed and light when I wake up.

The ship is equipped with a very nice fitness room. In a few minutes, I’m headed there for a workout. I’ve had the privilege of using this room some other mornings, and the experience has been good.

A row of windows on one side of the room allows passengers to take in the pretty views of the Alaskan wilderness and shoreline. This morning, a gentleman working out on a machine close to the windows reported seeing a couple of dolphins jumping. I missed that sighting.

This is our second full day at sea. Today, Saturday, July 5, 2025, we would begin the repacking process.

After breakfast, I started working through the set of specific instructions given to each passenger. Those instructions would be important to follow as we are preparing for leaving the ship on Sunday.
One order caught my eye, our luggage had to be outside our rooms by 11 p.m.

Taking a break from the preliminary packing, we opted to attend a couple of video presentations—one on whales, and the other a behind the scenes look of what it takes to run the ship during a cruise.

The piece about whales: Alaska Up Close: Pacific Giants was well done and informative.

The behind the scenes look, titled: A City On The Sea was impressive.

In this piece, what caught our attention the most was food—pounds and pounds of food.

But, we were also enlightened with the construction of the ship, including the technology used to provide water, electricity, and keeping the ship in motion.


Connected to each of those essential components is a member of the crew. From tip to tip of the ship, the key factor for me is the dedication of the crew.

After this enlightenment, we attempt to attend the Dutch brunch, but there was fifteen minute wait. So, we walked to the Lido dining room where they were celebrating Cake Me Away! If you were a cake lover, this was the place you needed to be.

Our afternoon was unremarkable—walking the deck, reading, napping, and finalizing our packing.

Saturday afternoon (Photo Bill Pike)

We could have opted to participate in the Polar Bear Plunge at the Sea View Pool, but our sanity prevailed.

Throughout the afternoon the scenery continued to be enjoyable as the Captain and his crew pushed the ship toward College Fjord.

College Fjord was discovered in 1899. Located along a twenty mile section of Prince William Sound, the glaciers located here are named after East Coast colleges. Schools for women and men are included in the naming.

Here we would be able to view Harvard Glacier.


Located in Prince William Sound, the Harvard Glacier is a beast.

The face of the glacier is 1.5 miles. The glacier is 300 feet thick, 24 miles long, and covers 120,000 acres in the Chugach National Forest.

Additionally, the glacier is known for its calving and blue ice. Calving is when large chunks of the glacier break off crashing in the water below.

While we were viewing, this calving happened several times.

Note the calving in the middle (Photo Bill Pike)

With the calving, when the large pieces of the glacier hit the water, waves immediately start to roll across College Fjord.

I overheard a lady comment that the rumblings of the glacier reminded her of thunder rolling and echoing off the parched land of a Midwest prairie.

I admired her description.

That glacier thunder is an indescribable sound. There is no flash of lightning. Some where deep in the chasms of the ancient ice a silent fracture becomes a resounding clash and crash of percussive sound— a thunder clap. That thunderous calving disrupts any tranquillity in College Fjord.

That thunder is topped only by the contrast in the colors of the glacier. For sure sections of snowy white are present. From that white, we saw contrast into shades of gray and coal black. Unfortunately, some of those darker shades are related to pollution.

Yet among, the grays and dark charcoal colors are various shades of blue—a blue that your eyes will never forget.

Remarkable blue (Photo Bill Pike)

Here is one explanation for the blue color of the glacier from the USGS: “Glacier ice is blue because the red (long wavelengths) part of white light is absorbed by ice and the blue (short wavelengths) light is transmitted and scattered.

This glacier viewing experience was enhanced by commentary from the ship’s Wildlife Guide.

Our last night of dining on the ship, we had reservations at the Pinnacle restaurant. I opted for grilled halibut. I wasn’t disappointed.

A delicious dinner soup (Photo Bill Pike)

Gradually, the ship was charting a course away from the College Fjord. The Captain and crew intended for us to have a late night docking in Whittier, Alaska.

Back at the room, we finished up the packing, and placed our properly tagged luggage in the hallway.

Couldn’t resist a few minutes on our deck/porch/veranda!

Staring into the wilderness beyond the rocky shorelines. the majestic deep green of the trees inch their way up the inclines of the mountains.

With these two days on the water, sometimes, the green is broken from the silent intrusion of a waterfall. Like a ribbon of white, it cascades down toward the shoreline.

Near the rocky peaks of the mountains, snow is still hanging around. The snow like me is reluctant to leave this pretty place.

Pretty mountains with snow hanging around (Photo Bill Pike)

Just as memorable as the glacier blue is the surface of water moving away from College Fjord. It is dotted with dollops of ice.

Pieces of the glacier (Photo Bill Pike)

I hope Alaskans and Americans will continue to preserve this precious land and water.

(Photo Bill Pike)

Glacier Bay National Park

Our day started early.

This morning, we had guests from the National Park Service on board to share their knowledge about Glacier Bay National Park.

With the emphasis on the Margerie Glacier, different forward levels of the ship were open. We started outside of this area, and then moved inside to the crow’s nest.

A view from the ship (Photo Bill Pike)

We were a part of a large crowd of early risers. Three pieces of information were shared—a short introduction of our guests, the plan for viewing the Margerie Glacier, and tips for spotting wildlife.

Schedule for the day (Photo Bill Pike)

From here, we left for breakfast and plotted out glacier viewing strategy.

When we returned to the viewing area, my Commander Supreme opted to join a long line for the pop-up National Park Service Store. The outside air was colder this morning, so I went back to the room to add an extra layer of clothing.

We reconnected on the front edge of one of the forward decks. This was a good viewing spot to see the glacier and to hear the ranger’s commentary.

Nippy morning (Photo Betsy Pike)

According to the National Park Service, the Margerie Glacier is twenty-one miles long. That length is traced back into the Fairweather Range where some of the elevations peak out at 9000 feet.

Additionally, the glacier is 0.85 miles wide. Its ice face towers at 200 feet above the water.

The glacier of the day (Photo Bill Pike)

The ship’s Captain and his crew are to be credited for positioning the ship for a full viewing experience of the glacier. This included careful navigation through an ice field as the ship moved toward the glacier.

Pretty, but potentially perilous water (Photo Bill Pike)

Eventually, we worked our way back to our room. We sat out on the balcony and continued to view the glacier. This included the excitement of large sections of the glacier tumbling into the bay.

The morning morphed into lunch time and a trek into the overly crowded Lido dining room—asparagus soup and a grilled pear and brie cheese sandwich hit the spot.

After lunch, we attended a lecture by the ranger and a local indigenous people representative. Each presenter conveyed their areas of expertise with lots of passion.

From the lecture, Betsy, Dan, and I walked to deck three, the designated walking deck. Here we had the opportunity to interact with the Park Ranger.

(Photo Bill Pike)


To our surprise, we also had multiple opportunities to see whales spouting. The whales were feeding close to shore. This included a few tail flops from whales huddling close to the surface.

The cutest view was when a sea otter on its back came surfing by the ship with an infant resting comfortably on the mother’s stomach. Neither appeared to have a care in the world.

After walking, Betsy and Dan played pickle ball on one of the decks with some likeminded passengers.

For dinner, we had signed up for a special treat—a seafood boil. At $35.00 a piece, we had a blast.

We started with a delicious bowl of clam chowder.

This was followed by each of us receiving our own kettle of seafood.


Inside the kettle in a delicious broth were clams, mussels, shrimp, Dungeness crab legs, salmon, corn, potatoes, and a perfectly seasoned small loaf of crusty bread. The bread was perfect for sopping up the broth.

From the staff, we were given bibs, and small bowls for washing our fingertips. We had lots of fun— that included interacting with and asking questions about the logistics of this meal with the staff.

Not that we had room, but dessert was a berry crumb with vanilla ice cream.

After dinner, we needed air and exercise, so we walked the deck.

An after dinner view (Photo Bill Pike)

We came back inside for an outstanding performance of Broadway songs and more trivia. With the trivia, we finished in a three way tie. In the tie breaker, our answer was off by one year.


Next, we took in a set with the ship’s house band.

By now, sleep was calling us, but we didn’t collapse right away.

Sitting on our balcony, a couple of whales teased us, and we were treated to a colorful sunset.

Nothing like a sunset (Photo Bill Pike)

Saturday would bring another day of travel on the open waters with a final look at glaciers in the College Fjord.

Whittier was our destination, the point where we would leave the ship for the land part of our journey.

In truth, I rarely thought about the Fourth Of July today.

I’m not a huge fan of fireworks, but the reality is that Alaska’s beauty and wonder were our fireworks.

This is a precious place.

Skagway

Sorry to annoy you, but I’m up early.

I’m out on our balcony.

I snapped this photo at 4:29 a.m.

Final approach into Skagway (Photo Bill Pike)

We are on our final approach into Skagway.

Once the ship is docked, the first thing I notice is how a land/rock slide has impacted our departing the ship.

Land/rock slide (Photo Bill Pike)

Later this morning, we will be boarding a tender(a small boat, holds 120 passengers) for a short distance to enter Skagway. Using the tender is a safety precaution.

The downtown area of Skagway is more compact. It possesses lots of charm.

Once off the tender, we reorganized and found our bus for a ride out of Skagway.

While waiting to board the bus, we explored a nice green space that provided lots of information about the Klondike Gold Rush National Park.

This included information about the U. S. Army arriving in 1942 because the Japanese had bombed Dutch Harbor and invaded Attu and Kiska Islands in the Aleutian archipelago. (National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior)

Once on the bus, we learned quickly that we had an exceptional tour guide.

The success of the tourist season in Alaska depends upon reliable people. Many of the guides return each summer to drive tourists around and share a bit about themselves and the town that continues to lure them back every season.

A combination of humor, local color, and knowledge about the area from a variety of angles is a plus for a guide.

Heading out of town, our guide told us about medical care, the successful K-12 school, graduating class of 7, and how Holland-America provides the prom for the high school age students. The prom takes place on the ship.

On the ride out of Skagway, it was interesting to note how the landscape changed. Our guide was going to give us a bit of a bonus, we were going to briefly re-enter Canada.

A pretty view outside of Skagway (Photo Bill Pike)

This was one of his enduring diplomatic accomplishments in showing us the border and how it works way out here.

My wife and I after our short bus ride across the Canadian border (Photo Betsy Pike)

Once back in Skagway, we found our way to the Salty Siren for lunch.

The restaurant was busy, but we found a table outside that could accommodate us.
I enjoyed my bowl of fish chowder which featured salmon, halibut, and Pacific greenling.

A good place to eat (Photo Bill Pike)

After lunch, we spent time exploring downtown. I think Skagway is a jewel. It has a unique spirit about it. The shops are not as repetitive, but the business district is smaller.

Certainly, the Arctic Brotherhood Hall will catch your eyes. This building was constructed in 1899, and its facade features driftwood pieces. The building’s history goes back to the Klondike Gold Rush.

Arctic Brotherhood Hall (Photo Bill Pike)

After the shops, Betsy, Dan, and I regrouped for a hike in Yakutania Point Park.

If you have the time, don’t turn down an opportunity to hike around this park.

To get there, we walked out of town, past the airport, and took a footbridge across the Skagway River.

Skagway River (Photo Bill Pike)

We came across many pretty vistas as we moved through what is described as a moderate two-mile loop.

From Yakutania Point Park (Photo Bill Pike)

Part of the park is tied to Smuggler’s Cove, a tidal inlet. Apparently, this inlet was used by rumrunners during Prohibition.

Smuggler’s Cove (Photo Bill Pike)

We walked back to the ship. There we regrouped with our pals and worked our way to dinner.

This was Holland-America’s “Orange Party” day, a day to honor the cruise line’s Dutch heritage, and King’s Day in Holland. For dinner I wore an orange shirt. Someone from our group ordered this cocktail, I think it was named an Orange Mule.

In honor of King’s Day (Photo Bill Pike)

After dinner, trivia, a comedian, and a band leading a Holland celebration were a part of our rounds.

We had a good day, lots of variety.

Back at the room, I followed my nightly routine to sit out on the balcony for a few minutes.

Watching the subtle changes in the landscape and the water is enjoyable as the ship glides along.

I believe our itinerary has us sailing for two days. We are working our way into Glacier Bay National Park.

Still thinking about the extension of daylight on this cruise. This final picture of the day was taken at 10:06 p.m.

Another late daylight view (Photo Bill Pike)

So far, the beauty of the land and sea hasn’t disappointed us in Alaska. How lucky we are to be experiencing this journey.

How lucky we are for the Holland-America employees and the tour guides who continue to show up every season.

Juneau

I think my old body might be starting to adapt to the long span of daylight.

I think, I slept a little later this morning.

Although, I was up early, but maybe not as early as previous mornings.

The captain and crew are nudging the ship toward Alaska’s capital city, Juneau.

As we work our way toward the dock, I was greeted with by my usual shades of gray sky and gray water. But, that’s ok. There is still a stunning beauty in those shades.

A gray morning heading into Juneau (Photo Bill Pike)

Then slowly, the gray lifts ever so slightly, and the colors along the shoreline begin to appear.

A bit of color along the shoreline (Photo Bill Pike)

After breakfast today, we’ll be heading out to the Tongass National Forest. Our focus will be Nugget Falls, Mendenhall Lake, and Mendenhall Glacier.

From our location, we are about twelve miles away from the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor’s Center. The center was opened in 1962, and its dedication plaque contains these words: “To The Furtherance Of Knowledge And Enjoyment Of Glacial Phenomena.”

Clearly, there is lots to be learned and much to enjoy visually at this location.

We started with a two-mile round trip hike to capture a better view of Nugget Falls. With a measured length of 377 feet, the falls are spectacular. The sound of the water cascading down into Mendenhall Lake will clearly catch your attention. Another feature here is the beach. It allows visitors to roam toward the falls and the lake.

Nugget Falls (Photo Bill Pike)

As we start the walk back to the visitor’s center, there are numerous opportunities to enjoy the beauty around you. Just a few steps to your right or left shows the lushness of the greenery on either side of the trail.

A singular lupine (Photo Bill Pike)

Additionally, a sheltered viewing stand is available to look toward the Mendenhall Glacier. Even on this cloudy day, we are impressed with the depth of its mass as it winds back into the Mendenhall Valley. The glacier is 13.6 miles in length, and as you might guess, the glacier is receding.

Mendenhall Glacier (Photo Betsy Pike)

And one more tidbit, the glacier was originally named after the Auke Indians, but was renamed in 1892 to Mendenhall. This was in honor of Thomas Corwin Mendenhall.

Mr. Mendenhall was the Superintendent of the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey. Under his leadership, the international boundary of Southeast Alaska was surveyed. (US Forest Service/Tongass National Forest)

Soon, we were on our way back into Juneau.

We had lunch at the Twisted Fish. I enjoyed my perfectly grilled halibut sandwich and a well-made local Kolsch style beer. Noted on the menu were King Crab legs. A customer could order two legs for eighty dollars.

We spent the afternoon exploring Juneau.

There is lots of repetition among the shops with jewelry, t-shirts, and assorted trinkets dominating the store fronts.

We took a tram ride that was enjoyable. The cloud cover limited our view a bit.

View from tram (Photo Bill Pike)

Dating back to 1893, we came across the St. Nicholas Orthodox Church. The church has roots to the Russian Mission Society who supported its founding. Its octagonal shape and gold dome make it easy to spot, and in 1973, the church was placed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.

Historic church (Photo Bill Pike)

Our wandering continued as we worked our way down the stairs of a steep hillside heading toward the city’s waterfront park. Getting there we came upon a small Veterans memorial, spied a juvenile eagle a top a streetlight, and admired the statue of a life size whale leaping out of the water.

Whale statue (Photo Bill Pike)

Here we are in this pretty setting on the Gastineau Channel with the Canadian Coast Mountains overlooking the city, and just on the outer fringe of the waterfront park, we come across a singular encampment with a homeless person. Poverty has no boundaries. America, can’t we do better?

We continue our walk figuring out how to make it to the ship’s berth on the dock.

Once there, we re-enter, and then catch back up with our friends for dinner.

Seemed like we curtailed our post-dinner roaming this evening. Or maybe, the busy day, and the long daylight hours were catching up with us.

That bit of weariness seemed to be settling in on Marian. She wasn’t feeling well.

Before committing to sleep, I spent a few minutes out on our balcony. The local time was 9:30 p.m. I took a picture of the shoreline as we were departing Juneau. Back home in Richmond, it would be totally dark.

Ample daylight at 9:30 p.m. (Photo Bill Pike)

I really enjoyed our trip to the Mendenhall Glacier. Lots to take in between the energetic Nugget Falls, the placid Mendenhall Lake, with formidable, but shrinking glacier in the background.

I appreciate the respect that is being shown to preserve this precious land. I just hope we are wise enough to keep respecting and preserving it for our future generations.

My hope is tied to us always remembering the words on the plaque at the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor’s Center: “To The Furtherance Of Knowledge And Enjoyment Of Glacial Phenomena.”

One more peak at Mendenhall Glacier (Photo Bill Pike)

Annual email: The Wind That Shakes The Barley

For most of you, I will guess that you do not receive a weekly email from one of the local craft breweries where you live.

But here in Richmond, Virginia, I receive an email from Ardent Craft Ales every Thursday.

The email tells me about new beer releases and special events at the brewery.

Ardent is located in the Scotts Addition section of Richmond.

Over the last several years, this neighborhood has undergone a rebirth. With old commercial buildings being transformed into housing, restaurants, and breweries.

Unfortunately, adequate parking didn’t match the explosive growth.


When our church first started our Pub Theology program, Ardent Craft Ales was our most gracious host.

This time of the year, I’m hopeful to receive an Ardent email announcing the release of The Wind That Shakes The Barley.

On Thursday, February 26, 2026, the email arrived that confirmed The Wind That Shakes The Barely would be available on draft in the taproom.

This Irish oatmeal stout has become a favorite beer of mine.

Last year on the afternoon of its release, I convinced my wife to go with me to Ardent so I could have a pint. She had a glass of wine and we split an hors d’oeuvres.

This year, I missed the opening afternoon, but I was able to have our son tag along with me on Saturday afternoon.

On this last day of February that felt like a spring day, Ardent was busy. Inside the taproom, customers formed two lines. To the credit of the cashiers, the lines moved quickly.

By the time we received our stouts, most seating on the outside deck and inside the taproom were taken. But, we found a couple of chairs at a table and sat down.

A teasing pre-Spring sun came through the window, and it was a perfect afternoon to enjoy a classic Irish brew.

This year’s version of The Wind That Shakes The Barley didn’t disappoint. The brewers made a quality beer.

I don’t possess a sophisticated beer tasting palette so notes of “baker’s chocolate and caramel” don’t register with me. However, I do agree this is a “light-bodied” stout, not has heavy as some stouts might be.

So, I must confess. I love, love the name of this beer. I think The Wind That Shakes The Barley is a perfect name for a beer.


I can imagine the golden field of barley that an Irish farmer has put his heart and soul into with a gentle wind rustling through the thickly planted grain.

According to several sources, The Wind That Shakes The Barley has quite a history in Ireland.

In 2006, this was the title of a successful film about two brothers who join the Irish Republican Army to fight for Ireland’s independence from England. The plot takes an interesting twist as the brothers are on opposing sides during the Irish Civil War.

But the title of the film, actually comes from the song written by Robert Dwyer Joyce. The song is tied to the 1798 rebellion in Ireland.

Mr. Joyce wrote this Irish ballad as a poet and English professor. I listened to several recordings of the song. Each rendering captures the heartfelt passion of the history and the young man and woman portrayed in the tune.

I checked to see if barley is referenced in the Bible, and yes, it has quite a presence. I like this citing from Deuteronomy 8:8: “a land with wheat and barley, vines and fig trees, pomegranates, olive oil and honey;”

So barley has been providing for us for a long, long time.

I hope the wind will continue to shake the barley in the fields of farmers around the world.

And, I hope the brewers at Ardent Craft Ales will brew this favorite beer of mine in 2027.

In fact, I hope they never stop brewing this annual beer.

And, I hope, I’m around to enjoy another pint next year.

The Wind That Shakes The Barley (Photo Bill Pike)

Ketchikan

Tuesday, July 1, 2025 Day Seven Ketchikan

Ketchikan by Bill Pike

Per usual, I’m up early.

At 5:05 a.m., the ship’s foghorn sounds every two minutes.

A gray fog is trying to conceal the Alaskan coastline. The water is a darker shade of gray.

Foggy morning as we head into Ketchikan ( Photo Bill Pike)

We are scheduled to dock in Ketchikan at 6:30 a.m.

I always enjoy the last few miles of the approach into a port. A few minutes ago, a small, sturdy boat departed from the back of the ship. This is all guessing on my part, but I’m assuming, this was to drop off a local captain to help guide the ship into the Ketchikan harbor.

Our group is excited about exploring and touring around Ketchikan. We have a window from 8:30 to 2:30 p.m.

Closing in on Ketchikan, the visibility begins to improve. The hills and mountains that form the backdrop for the town are still shrouded with fog and low clouds.

Our first bald eagle is spotted. The eagle was resting on top of a singular docking pole.

As we inch closer to our docking berth, I notice a massive yacht complete with a helicopter, Coast Guard station with three ships, and a NOAA ship.

Coast Guard station (Photo Bill Pike)

It is interesting to watch the landing crew on the dock doing their final preps. A safety perimeter is set using cones and rope.

Dock area (Photo Bill Pike)

For the two gangways, a separate crew is present. With finesse and precision, they connect the ship to the dock.


Looks like some of the merchants closest to the dock are already open for cruise ship traffic. The store fronts look inviting.

The Commander and I hustle to breakfast. A few minutes after 8:00 we are off the ship.

I’m fortunate to be with a savvy tour guide. We want to take in as much of Ketchikan as we can before our scheduled excursion out to Totem Bight State Historical Park.

Our feet push us off, and we quickly come across Ketchikan Creek. This pretty creek runs through sections of downtown.

Ketchikan Creek (Photo Bill Pike)

We skirt through a section of shops on historical Creek Street. Following the creek bed, we notice an emphasis on salmon. A salmon ladder is part of the creek.

Salmon ladder (Photo Bill Pike)

With the creek as our guide, we work our way to the Deer Mountain Fish Hatchery. Apparently, we were too early for any peeks at fish or tours.

Near the hatchery is City Park, a very pretty park that is part of the Ketchikan Salmon Walk. This is a very doable 1.5 mile walk that winds along the creek and some quiet neighborhoods.

From City Park, it is a short distance to The Totem Heritage Center. This museum dates back to 1976. While totem poles are the main feature, the museum also has contemporary art that is linked to local culture and heritage.

Totem Heritage Center (Photo Bill Pike)

From the Totem Pole Heritage Center, we walked back into town. We spent time exploring a few of the Creek Street shops and learned a bit about its history. At one time, this was “early Alaska’s most infamous red-light district.”


Before heading back to the ship, we stopped at the Arctic Bar. This famous bar opened in 1937, and it appears to be just as popular today as when it first opened.

We regrouped with our pals and boarded the bus to Totem Bight State Historical Park.

A young lady, a college student was our bus driver and tour guide. She was outstanding.

On the drive out to the park, she provided a trove of local information with facts and humor.

At the park, she capably toured us around with a balance of stories related to the culture and totem poles.

Points of emphasis were made about the location. Basically, we’re in a rainforest. Five species of trees make up the core of this region, and we also learned about the skunk cabbage, and salmon berries (similar to raspberries).

Created in 1959, the park consists of 33 acres in Tongass National Forest. The park also presents views on the Tongass Narrows waterway.

Tongass Narrows Waterway (Photo Bill Pike)

A variety of totem poles are on site. The park also includes replica of a traditional chieftain’s house. The low, oval entrance will catch the attention of visitors.

Inside Chieftain’s house (Photo Bill Pike)

For me, my takeaway on the totem poles is that each one tells a story. Woven into those stories and the carved displays are the eagle, frogs, the mystical thunderbird, ravens, bears, beaver, watchman, and blackfish or killer whale.

Totem pole (Photo Bill Pike)

With an eye on the clock, our guide gave us time to work our way back to the bus before our departure.

We made it back to the ship on time. Facial recognition was used to speed up the pace for getting us back on board.

After a late lunch, we watched the pushing away from the Ketchikan dock. Lots of activity was waiting for us during this departure.

From the top deck of the ship, we had a good observation spot.

Our main point of interest was the Ketchikan airport. Access to the airport comes via a ferry that runs every thirty minutes.

This afternoon, we were treated to float planes landing and taking off, and commercial jets landing.

From the top deck, we departed to attend an information session about our upcoming transition from sea to land.

After this, we regrouped and made ourselves ready for dinner. The dinner hour on the ship amazes me as the staff works to meet the needs at every table with perfection.

With dinner over, we tried our luck in trivia with 80s music, attended an Irish sing-a-long, took in a comedian, and spent a bit of time with a jazz trio.

Maybe to try and rejuvenate ourselves, we took one walk around the ship with a cold, brisk breeze hitting us. For some reason that walk pushed us to needing some sleep so, we headed to our rooms.

I enjoyed Ketchikan.

It was interesting to experience the pride from the original Alaskans related to their culture and heritage. Like the stories found in a totem poll, the stories in the history of these people is fascinating too.

And yet, here I am, far away from the troubles of the world.

I wonder if the troubles of the world could be solved by revisiting the stories of our troubled pasts? Might we be able to say to ourselves— we’ve been down the tragic road before, why do we want to go again?

Looking forward to Juneau tomorrow and a visit with a glacier.

Sun setting after a good day (Photo Bill Pike)

Alaska Sailing The Inside Passage

I think I could be dead and still wake up early.

My internal clock has me pegged as an earlier riser. No alarms set. I just wake up.

Today, Monday, June 30, 2025 is no different.

Overnight, our Holland American ship has been sailing the Inside Passage. On Tuesday, July 1, we are scheduled to arrive in Ketchikan, Alaska at 6:30 a.m. That will be our first port stop.

Today, all of our activities will be focused on what the ship offers.

Out on our balcony, I’m surprised at how close we appear to land. Scattered low clouds and a speck of color from the rising sun make for pretty scenery.

Quiet start to the day. (Photo Bill Pike)

This morning, I’m going to the gym to workout. My goal is to ride a stationary bike and use some light weights.

With a couple of wrong turns, I make it to the gym. The equipment is nice and available for me to use. The room is equipped with good windows perfect for watching the water and the coastline.

After the workout, we gather for breakfast. The options are overwhelming. So, I keep it simple—oatmeal and the European spin on muesli. I love the muesli.

At some point after breakfast, we were notified that the Captain of the ship had made a navigational shift pushing the ship out into the open sea. Not sure of his reasoning, but he knows more about these waters than I do.

At some point, we lose the snips of fog and gray cloud cover for blue sky.

Blue sky, blue water. (Photo Bill Pike)

We took another stroll along deck three, and as the morning progressed we immersed ourselves in the following: a cooking demonstration, a stringed duo who perform on viola and cello, general knowledge trivia, stretch class, lectures about upcoming stops.

Had a hotdog for lunch. Then took it easy for a bit.

The guys regrouped and attended a beer tasting session. For the beer tasting, Peroni from Italy, Guinness from Ireland, and an amber ale and an IPA both from the Alaska Brewing Company in Juneau were featured. Butch, Dan, and I enjoyed the tasting and the comments from the staff.

Our sampling choices (Photo Bill Pike)

Also in this afternoon rotation was a Dutch tea. There was quite an offering of food with this event.

Dutch tea treats (Photo Bill Pike)

After the tea, the remainder of the afternoon passed quickly. Before we knew it, we were working our way back to the dining room for dinner.

Stuffed from the dinner, for the remainder of the evening, we roamed around the ship.

We walked through the casino. This seems like a waste of space to me.

Music attracted us to a solo pianist and then a cover band. It was clear these musicians had a real passion for music.

At some point, our collective body clocks reminded us that sleep was important. Roaming stopped. Our rooms were calling. We said good night.

Before drifting off, I think about the Inside Passage.


This thousand mile route runs from the coast of Washington state to Skagway, Alaska.

By comparison, back home the Intracoastal Waterway runs from Massachusetts rounds the tip of Florida, and meanders along the Gulf of Mexico coastline ending in Brownsville, Texas.

Both the Inside Passage and the Intracoastal Waterway provide cruise and commercial ships, and pleasure boats some protection from the open ocean waters.

I wonder what the early explorers of the Inside Passage thought as they traversed these beautiful waters?

Did they think it would ever have an end point?

I wonder how tempted they were to pull ashore on any of the remote islands or coastlines on either side and explore.

As they progressed did they stare in amazement at a soaring eagle, the sighting of a whale, or a ginormous grizzly bear feasting on the shoreline?

I’m not sure, but I know my old eyes have enjoyed the stunning scenery today, and I look forward to more as we come into Ketchikan in the morning.

Churned up waters from our ship (Photo Bill Pike)