Day Eight Key West: Hemingway, Truman, Sloppy Joe’s, Mallory Square, and a Jonathan Austin knockoff

Even though we were headed to Key West today, I still went out fishing. This time next week, I’ll be back in Richmond. I will not be walking out in shorts, with a fishing rod, and casting out into a lagoon fed by The Gulf of Mexico.

Dan joined me for a few casts, and at some point, a blue heron snuck into the shallows by an old retaining wall.

My lefty pal (Photo Bill Pike)

Maybe that is the best thing about fishing—its not what you don’t catch, its about what you see while trying to catch fish.

The quiet heron (Photo Bill Pike)

I don’t recall when we departed for Key West, but I can tell you I was excited.

From Marathon Key to Key West is about fifty miles. We knew that traffic might slow us up from time to time, but I wasn’t really thinking about the clock. I was more curious as to how the Overseas Highway was going to link together with bridges and passages overland to drop us in Key West.

We made steady progress as we checked off the assorted Keys along the way, and before we knew it, we found a street parking spot in Key West.

No sooner had we parked, when we witnessed an accident with a motor scooter. Maybe a struggle with balance and a lack of experience contributed to the fall. The young lady impacted the most by the fall seemed reluctant to get back on the scooter. I don’t blame her.

After taking care of the parking fee, we organized, and worked to find a location to make our bladders happy.

Following that break, we headed to the Southernmost Point Buoy. This buoy documents that visitors are in the southernmost point in the continental United States.

We opted not to stay in the line for a photo. Butch captured a nice solo shot of the buoy to share with everyone, and with that visit done, we headed toward Ernest Hemingway’s house.

It has been a long, long time since I have read anything by Mr. Hemingway. I loved reading his work when I was in college.

I was hoping the tour of his Key West home would be better than the one we took a few summers ago. While visiting our oldest daughter and her family in Chicago, we toured the home were Hemingway was born in Oak Park, Illinois. That was a difficult tour to endure.

Today, we opted for a self-guided tour, and I think that worked well despite the large group of people touring the home and grounds.

I can only begin to imagine the untold stories on the grounds and from the interior of the house.

Lots of the famous six toe cats were around. I didn’t bother to count. But, it was easy to see that the cats are held in high esteem here. There is even a small cat hotel constructed for them.

Concise signage helps guests find their way with good information. Of course, you pick up bits of stories from overhearing a tour guide’s scripted account, or from a very knowledgeable guest who is a devoted fan of Mr. Hemingway.

On the grounds, the long saltwater swimming pool will catch your attention.

The pretty pool (Photo Bill Pike)


Inside, every room is a story. I can imagine hearing the sound of the typewriter keys clacking away as Mr. Hemingway wrote in the easy pace of a Key West day.

Typewriter on the table (Photo Bill Pike)

Eventually, our curiosity was satisfied, and we regrouped in a small garden near the entrance.

From the Hemingway House, we worked our way to Duval Street. Looking for lunch, we quickly chose Old Town Tavern and Beer Garden. We sat at a nice table on the porch. That gave us the opportunity to chat and watch the people traffic on Duval Street.

We had an exceptional waiter who offered guidance with the lunch menu, but who also was curious about our trip.

After lunch, we continued exploring Duval Street and its shops. Our timing was good as we worked our way to the Harry S. Truman Little White House. One of the afternoon tours was about to start, so we quickly purchased our tickets.

(Photo Bill Pike)

Our tour guide was perfect. He knew how to use this allotted time efficiently. The presentation throughout the house was a blend of interesting history, good back stories, and humor. Additionally, the character of the house captures the era of Truman’s service to America, and like Hemingway’s home, every room had a story.

There was no better back story than the detailed research that revealed how the editors of the Chicago Daily Tribune published the infamous headline—Dewey Defeats Truman.

In what would become a post-World War II presidency for Mr. Truman, he accomplished a lot.
One of the most interesting to me were two executive orders—9980 and 9981. These orders desegregated the federal workforce and the armed forces. Sad to me that America continues to struggle with skin color today.

If you are ever in Key West, I would make the commitment to tour The Little White House. It is a snapshot into the past, but filled with opportunities to learn about Mr. Truman.

From here, Butch and I walked back to retrieve the car. The rest of the group ambled toward Duval Street.

Once we reconnected, we hit the stage of the afternoon where we needed to be refreshed. Sloppy Joe’s at the corner of Duval and Greene was our destination to be restored.

This storied bar is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. We ordered our beverages, and surprise, I didn’t order a beer. I opted for a Mojito. With its origins in Cuba, the drink features rum, lime juice, simple syrup, and fresh mint. I’ll leave it to you to sort out the Hemingway myths about this tropical drink.

Inside Sloppy Joe’s (Photo Bill Pike)

Along with people watching, there is quite a bit to take in around the bar. Artifacts that are a part of the bar’s storied history are still on display.

While we were enjoying ourselves, I remember a couple of times a bell being rung at the bar. The bell comes from a Coast Guard cutter that is no longer in service. The barkeeper rings the bell to signal that a member of the waitstaff has received a large tip.

If you want a piece of Sloppy Joe’s to take back home, a gift shop with all of the usual suspects is available. For my gift, I’ll settle for the memory of visiting Sloppy Joe’s with our treasured friends. And, I’ll wonder if Mr. Hemingway’s ghost ever sneaks in for a Mojito.

After Sloppy Joe’s our focus was getting to Mallory Square.

Somehow securing a parking space was hassle free. For a bit of time, we roamed in and out of shops. The shop owners were hoping we wandering tourist might boost their income for the day.

Mallory Square is famous for its waterfront sunsets. While waiting for the sun to put on its unpredictable show of colors, there is a variety of entertainment taking place.

I was interested in one young man whose solo show reminded me of our famous Richmond, Virginia performer, Jonathan The Juggler.

This afternoon, I think the performer was Jase The Juggler, a native of Key West. His performance including juggling an assortment of items while at the top of a unicycle, and even his patter with the audience, reminded me of my friend, Jonathan, in Richmond.

Jonathan Austin knockoff (Photo Bill Pike)

Well, the sunset arrived, and it didn’t disappoint us.

The setting sun (Photo Betsy Pike)

When it was tucked away for the night into the sea, we retraced our steps through the crowd to the car. Our navigation devices wove us out of Key West, and soon we were back on the Overseas Highway driving toward Marathon Key.

With darkness upon us, Butch safely drove us into Marathon. Once back, we ate at an unremarkable restaurant. At that point, we were ready for the comfort of our Tranquility Bay condo and the opportunity to collapse.

We packed a lot into our day.

We were in constant motion, but I think that movement makes a good day for a tourist.

We saw a lot, and learned even more from these experiences.

And there is part of me that would like to return to Key West.

I know we walked by many pretty homes. If nothing else, I would simply like to gander at them more closely, but as a polite tourist.

From this photo of a driveway gate, I quickly learned what could happen to overly intrusive tourists. Year round Key West residents must develop a tolerance for sightseers.

Still, I appreciated the humor found in this signage.

(Photo Bill Pike)

As I climb the stairs toward my bed, I’m thankful for this opportunity to be on a “fishing” expedition with our friends.

Days like today confirm that enduring friendships are better than catching a fish.

Day Four Marathon Key Thursday, January 23, 2025: Islamorada

If you’ve been following this blog, you know how it will start. Yes, Bill was again up early. Apparently, sleeping-in isn’t in his body’s metabolism.

Another gray, cloudy, windy, unseasonably cool day was awake and waiting for me.

Gray, overcast, cool, breezy morning (Photo Bill Pike)

This morning, I took the short trek to the boardwalk and cove to fish. A different lure dangled from the end of the line.

Overnight, the stubborn winds had pushed lots of seaweed into the cove. Occasionally, the hook on the lure would pick up pieces of this grass.

On a daily basis, the ground crew works to remove the seaweed that washes up on the shoreline. We’ve noted in exploring Marathon Key that when the seaweed clusters up in tight quarters, it can create an unpleasant stench.

If there are any fish hanging around in this cove, they are opting to ignore my efforts to attract one, and that’s ok. When my fishing is unsuccessful, I turn my attention to the surroundings from where I’m casting. Even gray mornings are pretty on this coastline.

After several more minutes no nibbles, I head back to the condo.

Now, I’m going to change into my running clothes and go for a run along U. S. 1 heading toward Seven Mile Bridge.

When I’m out of town, and I go for a run, I try to remember to write down the address for where we are staying. I put that scrap of paper with me on the run. If something were to go wrong with my health, at least the responders would know where to find my family and friends, and dump my old body.

Luckily this morning, my run was uneventful. I ran to the 0.5 mile marker on the Old Seven Mile Bridge. Originally, this bridge was a part of the railroad that Henry Flagler built.

Today, the modern Seven Mile Bridge runs parallel to the old bridge. The old bridge goes for two miles. The bridge is ideal for bikers, runners, and walkers. It views are spectacular in any direction with sunset being its prime.

Overseas Highway on the left, laned pedestrian bridge opposite (Photo Bill Pike)

At the end of the two miles is Pigeon Key. At the beginning of the bridge there is a very nice connector that runs under the new Seven Mile Bridge to the Castaway restaurant.

Additionally there is a paved trail that runs parallel to U. S. 1. On the Gulf of Mexico side, this trail is a good access point for fishermen. Its small park appearance also has some picnic tables.

After my run, I have a light breakfast, shower, and get ready for our ride to Islamorada.

Dan won’t make this trip, as he has some work calls that could not be rescheduled.

According to various sources, Islamorada consists of five keys. Distance wise in the Keys, the village lies between Miami and Key West. Its name in Spanish translates to “purple island.”

For many years, former major league baseball star, Ted Williams, made his home in Islamorada. He loved the area for its fishing.

The Morada Way Arts and Cultural District is a nice shopping area in Islamorada.

Our first stop on this jaunt is the Green Turtle Inn Restaurant.

If you are in Islamorada, I would not turn down a meal at the Green Turtle Inn. I can only speak for our lunch time experience, but I would go back for The Bacon Wrapped Love Sandwich and a side of collards.

This is a meatloaf sandwich on a Brioche bun with Applewood smoked bacon, a meatloaf glaze, topped off with lettuce, tomato, and a slab of red onion.

On the menu, the restaurant notes this sandwich is a favorite of celebrity chef, Guy Fieri. After eating this sandwich, I understand his sentiment.

The collards were just as good. Tender, full of flavor, and cooked in a pot liquor that had me going for every last drop in my bowl.

And I also enjoyed from the Florida Keys Brewing Company their German styled Kolsch beer named Iguana Bait.

My college roommate, Butch, who has wonderful culinary skills, and a much more sophisticated palate, ordered the same meal and loved ever bite.

The ladies at our table enjoyed their lunch choices as well. Before we left, we ordered a whole Key Lime pie to go.

Back in the car, we drove to our next destination, Theater of the Sea.

A family owned and run business since 1946, Theater of the Sea offers a variety of demonstrations and learning opportunities featuring sea life, reptiles, and mammals. Sea lions, sea turtles, dolphins, sharks, stingrays, alligators, and parrots are among the entertainers.

Don’t relax around this lethargic looking gator (Photo Betsy Pike)

On the nicely landscaped tropical grounds, guests move to assorted locations in the park. In each space, a captive audience appreciates the trainers as they direct the stars of each show through their scripted routines. Even on this partly sunny, cool, windy afternoon, the trainers were friendly, knowledgeable, and patient.

Most impressive were the dolphins. Gentle, yet quick and powerful, the dolphins and their very agile trainer put on quite a show.

Back in the car, we made a stop at the Publix in Islamorada. Then, we drove back to Tranquility Bay.

For dinner that night, we had an assortment of light snacks, and the Key Lime Pie from the Green Turtle Inn.


The pie was delicious. We noticed the crust was different from the usual Key Lime pie crust.

After our trip, I followed up with the kind folks at the Green Turtle Inn about the crust. I learned the crust is a combination of crushed macadamia nuts and Rice Krispies cereal. Jenn who responded to my question pointed out that crust is gluten free.

Thursday showed us that our “creative flexibility” could nudge us to have fun on an imperfect day of weather.

Without question, we had a good day.

Day Two Marathon Key: exploring

Day Two Marathon Key Tuesday, January 21, 2025

Well, after our day of travel, we slept. Some longer than others, but we slept.

My internal alarm clock had me up by 4:30, but I did sleep.

It was a quiet start.

Before breakfast, Butch and I explored the grounds of Tranquility Bay. We came upon an egret in the high grass who was possibly stalking for breakfast too.

Egret in the tall grass (Photo Bill Pike)

After breakfast, we piled into the car.

We drove toward Seven Mile Bridge.

We quickly discovered that the bridge is seven miles long. Once you are on the bridge, there is no getting off until you reach the other side. I think when we reached Veteran’s Beach, we were able to turn around and head back to Marathon.

Back on Marathon Key, we were curious to check out Sandals. This was a store that we had seen constantly along U.S. 1 on our drive into Marathon.

Turns out that Sandals is a beach store. It is not unlike the Wings stores that we find on every other corner in various beach towns along the mid-Atlantic coast.

After Sandals, we made a grocery store stop at Winn-Dixie, a chain that I remember from growing up in North Carolina. They were a Florida based chain. With all of the changes and challenges in the grocery store landscape, I was surprised to see that they continues to live.

Lunch time was approaching. We decided on the Sunset Grill. This open air restaurant sits at the foot of the Seven Mile Bridge. The restaurant is properly named as it is the ideal location to watch a sunset.

I ordered conch chowder and a blackened fish sandwich. It was interesting to note the differences in the conch chowder from my similar order on Monday at High Tide in Key Largo. This version was much sweeter and featured less vegetables in the mix.

After lunch, we were in pursuit of shrimp for dinner and bait for fishing. We found both.

The clerk at the bait shop directed us to a water front seafood market where we purchased three pounds of fresh caught shrimp for our dinner. Bubba and Forrest would have been pleased.

For the remainder of the afternoon, we took advantage of the sunshine and comfortable temperatures.

At the heated, saltwater pool, Dan tried out the snorkeling gear that he brought with him. He was prepping for swims in the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean to view sea life.

Dan in the pool (Photo Bill Pike)

At guest services in the lobby, we picked up golf balls and putters to test our green reading ability and patience on the synthetic putting greens in the open space in front of our unit. Additionally, we reserved three bicycles for a ride back down to the Seven Mile Bridge.

After the putting practice and bike rides, I put together the fishing rods and set them up to use on Wednesday morning. My non-resident fishing license issued by the state of Florida was only good for seven days, so I wanted to try my luck and not waste my pennies.

As we pushed toward dinner with our shrimp, a few of us ambled toward the water in search of a sunset.

Toward the end of day two (Photo Bill Pike)

Thanks to gray clouds, the sinking sun was obscured, but I did capture our brides who are the braintrust for this trip.

The brains of our outfit (Photo Bill Pike)

Prepared by Butch and Marian, our shrimp dinner was delicious, and it was topped off by a Florida favorite—Key Lime Pie.

Our post-dinner entertainment was organized by Marian. We participated in an assortment of games that made us think a bit, but that also generated humorous commentary.

Soon sleep was calling, and we talked about our thoughts for Wednesday.

Turns out that cold air we left back home was going to find its way into the Florida Keys.

Whatever disappointment the gray clouds, sparse sun, and stiff winds would bring, I needed to remember it was much colder back in Richmond.

But beyond the weather, I’m also reminded to be thankful for this opportunity to get away.

And I must always keep in front of me this fact—some people from the day they are born until they make the leap to heaven never have the opportunity to get away.

And maybe there is no better way to ponder this by referencing a song written by John Lennon.

On his 1980 album, Double Fantasy, Lennon’s song, “Beautiful Boy(Darling Boy)” is about his son, Sean.

In the song, Lennon used this quote from Allen Saunders: “Life is what happens to you while you’re busy making other plans.”

Amen.